We appreciate that at first glance it can seem quite overwhelming knowing what to buy given the vast amount of choice and set up combinations available when racing all things 1/10th. The best advice we can give is to come and find us on a Wednesday night and take a look at the cars racing and ask us some questions – we’re here to help!
If you’ve already done that or are just looking for some pointers, click on the plus signs below to find out the basics of what you’ll need to enter into the sport, and more importantly, race with us at FORCC.
+ What equipment do I need to be able to race at FORCC?
+ What class of race do I choose 2wd or 4wd?
In 2wd, only the rear 2 wheels power the buggy, they are easier to maintain than 4wd and are the cheaper option between the two classes. They are slower than their 4wd counterparts and we recommend that beginners opt for a 2wd before anything else. At many clubs including our own, 2wd is also the most popular class, so you’ll usually be racing alongside others of the same ability which makes for a much better racing experience.
For those with some experience and looking for more of a challenge, 4wd uses all four wheels to maximise the power from the car. They are faster and more complex machines, but with this comes more expense and a harder maintenance regime.
+ Which manufacturer should I choose?
We have all the main brands being showcased at FORCC, these include but are not limited to; Schumacher, Team X-Ray, Team Associated and Serpent.
By choosing one of the larger more well known brands, not only do you have more people to call upon if you need help with car set up, but also there’s more likely to be spares around when something breaks!
+ Brand New or Second Hand?
We get it, you’re excited about becoming an RC racer and you want everything to be all shiny and new right?! Well, from experience we’d say if you’re just starting out then there is a fantastic second hand market for all things 1/10th to look into first. Not only will you find it’s kinder to your bank balance, some sellers also include spares and ‘hop-ups’, so you’ll be getting more bang for your buck!
We have a buying and selling page dedicated to doing just that here, as do many other RC clubs, plus there’s online auction sites and RC forums to look at too.
We also have a donor car which can be hired if you want to give racing a go before committing – we just ask that you drop us a message so we can have it ready for your visit.
Of course there’s nothing against buying new too – we have a good number of racers that do just that. Buying a kit means that you’ll have a larger initial outlay and you’ll also need to build your car from scratch so it’s something to bear in mind.
+ Ok, I’ve got the car – but what else do I need?!
+ Radio Sets
Your transmitter / receiver is the next most important thing to invest in. At the club you’ll need either a 27MHz, 40MHz or 2.4GHz to race. There are two styles to choose from; regular ‘sticks’ or ‘pistol grip’. We can’t tell you which one to go for, it’s personal preference, but we do have both options for you to try if you’re undecided.
We wouldn’t recommend purchasing the really cheap models available on the market as it’s counterproductive in the mid-longer term as you become a more proficient racer. Again the second hand market is ideal to grab yourself a bargain when it comes to more complex digital transmitters, and you’ll be glad of the additional benefits they bring if you move onto Regional racing and beyond.
You’ll also need a receiver – most radio sets include these too, but make sure you double check!
+ Servo
These small but important components are used to ensure that power is transferred accurately to your steering. Make sure your servo has metal gears – cheap plastic gears don’t last and you’ll spend more money in the long run having to replace them. There are lots of makes and models to choose from with different speeds for more responsive steering, just make sure that your chosen servo is compatible with your make/model or car. Don’t forget a Servo Horn that is compatible with your car and matches the number of teeth of your servo.
For FORCC we recommend a torque of greater than 10kgs/cm and a speed of less that 0.1 seconds per 60 degrees (at 6V).
+ Brushless Motors
Because we run on astro, our club rule is that you may use down to and including a 7.5 turn motor. Anything below a 7.5 turn isn’t allowed and we do check! If you’re just starting out then a 10.5 turn would be a good place to start, it means you’ll have some pace but it’ll be more controlled and you won’t be barreling off down the straight like a rocket. As you become more skilled you can then switch to a faster motor.
+ Electronic Speed Controller
The ESC controls the speed of the motor. Prices for these vary wildly, but there are some good entry level models available for the club racer, such as the ‘Hobbywing Quicrun 10BL120’.
You may also find you can get a motor/ESC combo for a slightly reduced price, and again the second hand market offers lots of choice too.
+ Batteries
You’ll need LiPo batteries to power your buggy. The standard LiPo battery we use is 7.4v (2S) but 7.6v Li-HV are available. These can be used but due to regulations, they can only be charged to 7.4v (LiPo mode).
The most popular buggies use ‘shorty’ LiPos which come in various capacities. The recommended minimum capacity is 4000mAh and a “C” rating of at least 100C. These can come in standard size or low profile which gives a benefit to the centre of gravity of your buggy.
You’ll also need to invest in a ‘LiPo Bag’. These fire retardant bags help to prevent the spread of fire in the event there is an issue with a LiPo battery, particularly when racing in indoor venues such as FORCC. Our governing body the BRCA demands that all batteries are charged at an event in this way.
+ Chargers / Equalisers and Balancers
Again there’s plenty of these items on the second hand market. Make sure that your charger comes with balancer leads and is compatible for your chosen battery make/model. Multiple ports can help if you need to charge more than one battery at a time.
Charging can be an artform in itself and our racers will be happy to give hints and tips to avoid costly mistakes!
+ Transponder
At FORCC we run an AMB RC 3 decoder so you’ll need to get a transponder with this system. Transponders made by MyLaps are compatible, but the most popular at FORCC is the MRT mPTX.
We have hand out transponders for short term borrowing and we occasionally do a bulk buy, so speak to us if you’re interested in this option.
+ Tyres
To compete here at FORCC, you’ll need to make sure you are running our control rear tyre for both 2wd and 4wd. These are currently the Schumacher U6786 Block Tyre in Yellow Compound. Fronts are a free choice and again personal preference. We regularly stock the following in our onsite shop:
2wd: Cut stagger(Low Profile) & Splinter
4wd: Wide stagger & Shard
You’ll also need foams/inserts, rims and glue – again we stock these in the shop and can give you hints and tips to avoid gluing everything in sight if you need it!
+ Tools
Check your manufacturer’s build handbook to see what tools they recommend. If you’ve purchased second hand, then there are some key items which we feel should form part of your kit such as;
1.5 & 2.0mm Hex driver, 5.5 & 7mm Box driver, ride height gauge, camber gauge, turnbuckle spanner and pliers.
+ Other bits & bobs
The one good thing about getting into RC racing is that you’ll never be short of items to put on your Birthday or Christmas list! Custom painted body shells, pit mats and set up boards are just a few examples of the extras you can buy to personalise your buggy. We have club members at FORCC who offer shell spraying for a small fee – just ask!